1. Corner 5.10
Climb the rightmost corner of the outcrop.

2. 5.10+
Follow bolts just left of the previous route.

3. Unnamed 5.11+
Follow bolts just right of the previous climb.

4. Unnamed 5.11+
Cimb the steep face just right of the previous climb.

5. Darkness Falls 5.12+
Climb over the overhang.

6. D' Antonio Route 5.12b
Climb the steep route. 3rd route in from the left.

7. Mental Obstacle 5.11b
Climb the second bolted route past two bolts from the left side of the Shield Wall.

8. Unnamed 5.10
Climb the first bolted line on the rightmost side of the wall.

 

 

 

Pevine Island Guide

 

 

Pevine Island is one of the most unique areas to sport climb in the Mid-Atlantic. I've said many times that Pennsylvania has more unusual areas to climb than probably anyplace else in the U.S. Pevine is no exception to this statement. Imagine dancing on micro-edged shist: your back pulling towards the cool waters below. Picture yourself climbing a 30'-high pothole: you stem to your max, hamstrings on fire as you tremble, fearful of slipping down the tube into the water below. These are just two of the experiences you can expect to have at one of the most surrealistic places to climb, anywhere.

While the nearby Holtwood Dam purges thousands of gallons of water, you can climb nearly a dozen sport routes on this small rock island. The main wall, called The Shield Wall, features about 8 routes that are well bolted and have fixed or easily-built anchors above. The routes start at about 5.9+, but the majority are in the 5.11 and harder range. If the sport climbing doesn't satisfy you, the bouldering should; many boulders surround the shore of the island. The Holtwood Pothole is the most intriguing, but many steep, overhanging boulders can be found as well. Near the parking lot, a boulder called The Clam Shell has a few great overhanging problems with positive holds. The boulders near the water have some micro-crimp problems. One problem is as hard as V9. Some of the slab routes on the water have some interesting problems as well.

Be very careful when bouldering unroped here. Landing in the water is not always safe. Many landings may look deep but are actually shallow or have jutting ledges just below the water. It is quite unsafe to boulder near the water here. It is also important to note that if the siren sounds at the dam this means they are releasing water. This means that you may not be able to leave the island if the water level rises. And it rises quick! I was on the island in November and climbed for two hours, went to leave and found a log that spanned the boulders starting to float off it's perch as I began to cross. Also note that because of this, certain times of year it is not possible to climb here. Most times of year you can climb, but during high water times it may not be advisable or possible.

Many indian Petroglyphs can be found on the boulders in the river. If you hunt around you might get lucky and find one. At one point in time, over 1,000 petroglyphs could be found in the Susquehanna between Safe Harbor, PA and the Maryland border. About 300 still exist on the river islands and shorelines. Others can be found on a mountain in Saint Anthony's wilderness near Fort Indiantown Gap. If you know where to look, some amazing glyphs can be seen.

Many other great climbing areas are located in the River. Islands with higher and steeper sport routes can be found. You need a boat to get to most of them though.

 

History: A small group of climbers primarily developed Pevine Island. Hans, Tony, and Hugh Herr were active on Pevine Island and other nearby islands. Perhaps the best climb in the Susquehanna and one of the finest sport climbs in the state is called Weekend Warrior. This climb is not on Pevine but is on a nearby island. The Herr's also own an island that has spectacular bouldering and climbing.
Bob D' Antonio developed a few of the best routes on the island. He established a 5.12b that challenges climbers to this day. Grant Horner and Ed Mystraka were also very active climbers both here and at the nearby Cauldron, Star Rock, Obscurity Crag, Middle Earth, and a few other nearby crags. Jeff Holt was also an avid climber in the region in the pioneer days of climbing in the lower Susquehanna. In later years, myself and Ryan Lukas were active with some nice bouldering and a roof problem that TR's the center roof on the Shield Wall.

 

9. Susquehanna Boulder V1

10. River Rat V9
Climb the thin edges on the river side of the boulder.

11. Lizard Head V1
Find the hardest line on the boulder.

12. Unnamed V0
Climb the easy line of the boulder.

13. Unnamed V0
Climb the path of least resistance form a sit start.

14. Clam Shell V0+
Climb the center of the steep face.

15. TR Wall 5.9+/5.11+
A few good lines can be toproped here.

16. Pothole and The Dark Room
A few boulder problems and a nice surprise can be found here.

 

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